Cima di Castello

Difficult
7.6 km
7:00 h
1200 mhd
199 mhd
Capanna dell'Albigna
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At 3379 m, this is the highest peak in Bergell.
Technique /6
Fitness 5/6
Highest Point  3368 m
Lowest Point  2070 m
Best Season
Jan
Feb
Mär
Apr
Mai
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Okt
Nov
Dez
Start
Albigna
Destination
Abigna
Coordinates
46.338524, 9.645716

Details

Description

Its name is attributed to its rectangular shape, as it appears to the observer above all from the Fornotal or Monte Disgrazia. From the snow cap that forms the summit, the panoramic view in all directions is very interesting, as it is a central point in the Masino-Bergeller group. The ascent is from the Albigna hut and is mostly over glaciers, including a final slope of pronounced gradient. This is decidedly an ascent to be tackled with the necessary preparation, or with the help of a mountain guide.

Geheimtipp

The glacier must be climbed in a rope team, with caution when choosing the route; rope, crampons and ice axes are essential.

Sicherheitshinweis

The glacier must be climbed in a rope team, with caution when choosing the route; rope, crampons and ice axes are essential.

Ausrüstung

rope, crampons and ice axes are essential.

Directions

From the hut you descend as on the route over the Passo di Zocca (No. 39) and cross the torrent of the Vadrec dal Cantun. The path continues, inserted into the rocks on the eastern shore of the reservoir. On this route, the route runs up and down and is equipped with metal ladders and railings in places. Once you have bypassed the last rocky spur that forms the foundation of Punta Albigna, turn left and climb over a steep embankment of scree to a moraine edge. You stop at the northern edge of the depression between the ridges that descend from the Cima dal Cantun and the Cima di Castello, and which is occupied by the Vadrecdal Castel Nord. The small path that follows the moraine ridge ends at the foot of a rock face. At this point you climb the glacier and pay attention to the crevices - the route is often used by mountaineers on the way back from the Cima dal Cantun after climbing the north face. Once on the upper part, which is wider and flatter, you follow the pronounced saddle at the base of the summit of the Cima di Castello, called Bocchetta dal Castel (3106 m). Cross the saddle and come to the opposite side - occupied by the Vadrec dal Castel Sud - where you come back to the ascent route from the Bonacossa hut in Val di Zocca. All that remains is to overcome the last slope (about 40°) with caution to reach the highest point of the snow dome, at the same time the summit of the Cima di Castello. The descent takes place along the same route.

Directions

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Anreise Information

Responsible for this content Bregaglia Engadin Turismo.
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