006.06 Alpenpässe-Weg - Splügen – Safien Platz

The Walsers began settling in Splügen back in the 13th century. For 2,000 years, the Splügen Pass was the most important link between Graubünden and Italy. The muleteering business brought affluence to several families who built handsome residences with stone-tiled roofs here. However, the opening of the Gotthard railway line at the end of the 19th century caused the collapse of the muleteering trade, followed by a wave of emigration. Walk through the narrow lanes, wave goodbye to Splügen, and you are immediately faced with a steep climb. From Stafeli, there is a good view of the Stutzbach waterfall. The Teurihorn peak seems to be looking down on you. As you head towards Stutzalp, a view into the valley opens up. Alpine thistles sprout from the soil along the way, and a golden eagle might soar through the air above you. The marmots give you curious looks.

After somewhat more than three hours, you will have climbed up to Safierberg Pass (2,482 m.a.s.l.). You zig-zag downwards to the river Rabiusa in the Safien Valley, a tributary valley of the Surselva Valley in Graubünden. It's worth glancing up at the Alperschällihora rocks now and then. Perhaps you can make out the silhouettes of a family of ibex? Because on this stage, you are in Beverin Nature park – home to the "capricorn". After passing by the water basin below the beautifully located Wanna guest house, you will reach the Turrahus mountain inn after more than five hours. Continue along the Rabiusa to reach the church in Thalkirch, with a typical slanted fence (Stegelzuun) behind it.

Now you hike uphill for the last time, through the Bawald forest to the settlement of Camaner Hütta, and shortly afterwards to Camanaboda hamlet. The highest place in the Safien Valley that is inhabited all year round is a fine example of the structural pattern of Walser settlements. A visit to the Heritage Museum, accommodated in an old Walser house, is well worthwhile (advance notification required). The final hour begins with a walk along the main road as far as the Furra gully. Immediately after the gully, you reach this stage's destination: the "Kleinhotel Nühus". Delightfully located in the secluded and pristine Safien valley, this old Walser house has been converted into a hotel with modern amenities.