773 - San Bernardino Route (4 stages)

 Following the trail of the first carriageable alpine road in Graubünden, built between 1817 and 1823. Known since prehistoric times, the San Bernardino pass (until the 15th century Culmen de Oxello or, in some texts, Mons Avium) made Mesolcina a typical transit valley, open to cultural influences from north and south, rich in historical and cultural evidence and natural treasures. Along mule tracks and historic paths, the San Bernardino road is skirted and partially walked, with its stone structures and imposing hairpin bends. Among vineyards and chestnut groves in the valley floor, peaks, lakes, peat bogs and natural beauties on the pass, you walk in contact with the treasures of human industriousness: ten millennia of archaeological evidence, towers and castles, including the fortress of Mesocco, Romanesque and Baroque churches, villages arranged on terraces or aligned along the road.

The San Bernardino route in four stages.

Stage 1 San Vittore-Cama

From San Vittore, with the Carolingian-era Rotonda of San Lucio, you reach Roveredo walking on the left bank; the two villages, which have produced several architects who became established in Germany during the Baroque era, are rich in historic monuments (churches, towers, palaces). Continue towards Grono, a typical village along the road dominated by the harmonious Fiorenzana Tower, and continue towards Leggia and Cama. In addition to the ruins of Norantola castle, typical grotti are found in Cama; here, as elsewhere, you can enjoy local specialties, such as wine, salami and cheese.

• 3 hours walking, 11.2 km, 97 m ascent.

Stage 2 Cama-Soazza

The route runs through chestnut woods, meadows and floodplains: the villages of Sorte, Lostallo and Cabbiolo offer picturesque glimpses and valuable little churches. You reach Soazza, in a panoramic position on a terrace, walking along sections of the old railway with viaducts and tunnels and an 18th century restored mule track.

• 3h 45’ walking, 14.3 km, 245 m ascent.

Stage 3 Soazza-San Bernardino Village

In the village of Soazza you can admire the harmonious urban composition, the Cappuccini hospice, the church of San Martino and several 19th-century villas. An educational path departing from Soazza allows you to explore the naturalistic, landscape and cultural aspects of the area, especially chestnut cultivation. Our route continues towards the imposing ruins of Mesocco castle, a Renaissance fortress dismantled in the 16th century, and the church of Santa Maria del Castello, which houses an extraordinary cycle of 15th-century frescoes. Mesocco, which once played an important role in managing traffic through the San Bernardino, presents several interesting historic buildings; the earliest evidence of human presence in the region dates back almost 10,000 years. At Mesocco begins the truly alpine part of the route: the path climbs steeply towards Pian San Giacomo, repeatedly following the old roadways. After Pian San Giacomo the route runs almost entirely along the ancient mule track or “French road,” through forests and alpine pastures overlooked by majestic peaks, to reach the enchanting basin of San Bernardino with its tourist-oriented village.

• 6 hours walking, 14.5 km, 1042 m ascent.

Stage 4 San Bernardino Village-Hospice

San Bernardino is the main tourist destination of Mesolcina, established in the 19th century for its healthy mountain climate and the healing virtues of its mineral water. The environmental features of the area, with pine woods, peat bogs, small lakes and various leisure opportunities, make it the ideal destination for those seeking peace and nature. From the village you climb to the pass (2065 m), where the hospice is located, built in 1824-25 on the shore of the lake from which the Moesa river originates. The path crosses several times the excellently restored carriageable road; the remains of the 18th century modernized mule track are also clearly visible. The construction techniques and various structures of both routes can be admired. The pass area, broad and flat, is characterized by rounded hills shaped by glaciers, enclosing numerous small lakes and marshes of rare charm, an ideal habitat for flora of great naturalistic interest.

• 2 hours walking, 5 km, 457 m ascent.